A brief guide to understanding leather Part 1 -Types of Leather

full grain leather bags
Introduction:


Leather, a material steeped in history, has been used by man since prehistoric times.  Its use predates agriculture, metal working and writing.   Over time the uses, types and treatments of leather have become numerous and complex.  Among the factors that distinguish leather products, the grade of leather plays a pivotal role. In this brief introduction we will examine the various grades of leather, why one grade of leather is superior to another and the most common uses of each grade.

The Grades of Leather are:

  • Full grain
  • Top grain
  • Corrected grain (Genuine Leather)
  • Bonded Leather

Because this is a brief introduction we will not get into the different names and parts of the hide, the general rule of thumb to remember is that the more of the entire skin or hide the leather contains the higher quality the leather is.

Full Grain Leather:


At the pinnacle of leather grades, full grain leather retains the entire hide, showcasing the natural markings and textures. Because top grain leather retains the outermost layer of hide, minus only the hair, it is the strongest and most durable leather.  It is also the most expensive leather so many high-end luxury goods and hard use outdoor leather goods are made from full grain leather.


Top Grain Leather:


Top Grain Leather is the second highest quality leather and contains almost the entire hide.  The difference between full grain and top grain is that in top grain leather the natural scars and imperfections are sanded down, this makes for a more even and uniform appearance.  That’s why many luxury handbags and shoes are made from top grain leather.  The downside of top grain compared to full grain is that the process of sanding away the topmost layer to remove the scars and imperfections also removes the most durable, protective and resilient part of the hide.  This means that while top grain leather is still incredibly long lasting and durable it needs to be treated and cared for much more than full grain leather.

 

Side Note: If you are shopping for high quality or luxury leather goods the only two grades of leather you should consider are full grain and top grain.  All the other grades of leather are not considered high quality, no matter who is selling it or what label it carries.

Genuine Leather:


Contrary to common misconceptions, genuine leather does not claim the top spot in terms of quality. Genuine Leather is leather made from a hide that has been split several times and then had various process and finishes added to give it whatever appearance the maker desires.  While the various final products vary greatly in appearance, what is important to remember is that Genuine leather has lost a lot of the hide integrity and in losing this has lost many of the natural fibers that makes full grain and top grain leather so desirable.  Genuine leather is very common in leather goods and apparel, in fact it is probably the most common grade of leather because it gives the appearance of leather but is much more affordable.  However, no high end or high-quality items should ever be made from Genuine Leather. 

Bonded Leather:


Navigating to the more economical side, we encounter bonded leather. You can think of bonded leather as the Spam of Leather.  Crafted by bonding leftover leather scraps with polyurethane, it stands as the most budget-friendly option. While cost-effective, bonded leather does sacrifice some durability and the natural tactile feel associated with higher-grade counterparts.  Bonded leather is often mistaken for fake leather because the look and feel are so different from the higher grades of leather.  Bonded leather is often seen is lower priced belts.

In Conclusion, understanding the various grades of leather is essential in becoming a knowledgeable consumer and enthusiast of leather goods.  The key take away is that Leather is a natural product and the more of the natural hide the leather contains the higher the grade of leather.

 

 

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